Kokernag in February

The February story

February's frozen gardens with the steaming spring at their centre create a visual paradox — ice and flowing water coexisting. The spring pools' clarity is at its most dramatic in winter when no algae grows and the water is at maximum transparency. The trout farm's winter stock is lean and firm — February trout is arguably the best eating of the year. For the springs circuit: Verinag, 26km away, is the source of the Jhelum river (yes, the river that flows through Srinagar starts from a Mughal-era spring pool in Anantnag district). Jahangir built the octagonal pool around it in 1620. In February, you'll have it entirely to yourself. Achabal's Mughal garden, with its terraced water channels, is similarly deserted and atmospheric. The circuit (Kokernag-Verinag-Achabal) fills a comfortable day and offers more genuine Mughal water heritage than Srinagar's better-known Nishat and Shalimar gardens — without a single other tourist. Budget: Rs 600-1500. Drive from Srinagar: 80km, 2.5 hours. Winter road conditions: generally fine on the national highway.