The October story

Early October Pangong (first week) is the ultimate risk-reward proposition. The lake in autumn light, with golden-brown plateau, snow-dusted mountains, and almost zero humans on the shore, is Pangong at its most honest and least performing. The colours are muted compared to summer's vivid shifts but more subtle and, many argue, more beautiful. The wind picks up in October, creating waves that make the colour changes dynamic rather than static. The stars, in October's dry, cold atmosphere, are the year's sharpest. But the clock ticks: Chang La can close any day, and being stuck on the wrong side means military evacuation or waiting. Only attempt October Pangong if you accept the gamble and have buffer days in your itinerary.