Fair
Leh in May
Ladakh, India
May is when Leh starts to feel like Leh. The Srinagar-Leh highway typically opens in the second half of the month — that 434 km drive through Zoji La, Drass, and Kargil is one of India's great road journeys. The Manali-Leh route stays closed until June. Temperatures hit 5-18°C — jacket weather but genuinely pleasant in the sun. Hotels and restaurants are open, permits are processing, and the first wave of tourists arrives. It's still early enough that nothing feels crowded. The apricot blossoms around Leh and in the Sham Valley are at their peak — soft pink against stark brown mountains.
The May story
May is Leh's secret best-kept window. You get functioning infrastructure without the July-August mob. Thiksey, Hemis, Spituk, and Alchi monasteries are open and uncrowded. Pangong Lake permits are processing (apply through your hotel or a local agent — the DC office handles it). Nubra Valley via Khardung La is accessible if the pass is clear, which it usually is by mid-May. The light is gorgeous — long golden evenings with clear skies. Main Bazaar and Changspa are alive with cafes, and you can actually get a table at Bon Appetit or Gesmo without waiting. Key caveat: the Srinagar highway can open and then close again due to landslides — keep a buffer day. Manali route is not an option yet. Fly in, potentially drive out to Srinagar if timing works. Acclimatize 2 full days. Jio works in Leh town. AMS medication (Diamox) available at local pharmacies.
Why May scores 3/5
Weather
Srinagar-Leh road may open late May. Manali road still shut.
Roads & Access
self drive: 4WD recommended. Fuel up at every pump.. road condition: Manali-Leh: 5 passes, rough sections. Srinagar-Leh: better road.. public transport: Flights from Delhi, Mumbai. HPTDC buses Manali-Leh seasonal.. from nearest city: Manali→Leh 474km 2 days (Jun-Sep only). Srinagar→Leh 434km 2 days. Or fly to Leh directly.. last km difficulty: moderate
Safety & Emergency
Safety: 3/5. rescue: ITBP, Army. helpline: Ladakh Tourism: 01982-252297. ambulance: 108 (works in Leh town). police station: Leh Police Station. nearest hospital: SNM Hospital Leh. Army hospital in emergency.
Network
VI: No, JIO: Yes, BSNL: Yes, NOTE: Yes, AIRTEL: Yes. Good in Leh town. Zero in Nubra, Pangong, Zanskar. Download everything before leaving Leh.
Kids
Not ideal for kids — Older teens who love adventure will find it transformative, Monasteries are deeply educational
Elevation
3,524m — High altitude, acclimatisation needed
Who should go
- ✓Travelers with basic fitness
- ✓Smart-season travellers who want open infrastructure minus the crowds
- ✓Road trip enthusiasts planning the Srinagar-Leh highway drive
- ✓Photographers chasing apricot blossoms against barren mountain backdrop
- ✓Couples wanting romantic Ladakh without fighting for hotel rooms
Who should think twice
- ✗Those with mobility issues
- ✗Manali-Leh road trippers — that route opens in June
- ✗Travellers with zero flexibility — the Srinagar highway can close unexpectedly
- ✗Motorbike groups planning the full circuit — Manali side isn't ready
- ✗Anyone allergic to cold mornings — pre-dawn temperatures still dip below freezing
All 12 Months
| Month | Score | Note |
|---|---|---|
| January | 1/5 | Frozen. -20C nights. Flights only. Most things shut. Chadar Trek season. |
| February | 1/5 | Same. Chadar Trek window. Not for casual visitors. |
| March | 1/5 | Still winter at -10 to 5°C. Flights cancel frequently due to weather. Most hotels and restaurants closed. |
| April | 2/5 | Thawing at -2 to 12°C. Roads still closed. Flights only. Some cafes reopening. Limited activities available. |
| Mayviewing | 3/5 | Srinagar-Leh road may open late May. Manali road still shut. |
| June | 5/5 | Both roads open. Perfect. All permits, all routes accessible. |
| July | 5/5 | Peak season. Warm days, festivals (Hemis in Jul). Busy. |
| August | 4/5 | Still great. Some rain possible. Crowds manageable. |
| September | 5/5 | BEST. Post-monsoon clarity. Roads still open. Fewer crowds. |
| October | 3/5 | Getting cold. Roads closing by mid-Oct. Last window. |
| November | 1/5 | Roads closed for winter. Flights only, often cancelled. -10°C nights. Most guesthouses and tours shut. |
| December | 1/5 | Deep winter, -15 to -25°C nights. Flights only. Town hibernates. Only for Chadar Trek preparation. |
Practical Details
How to reach
Manali→Leh 474km 2 days (Jun-Sep only). Srinagar→Leh 434km 2 days. Or fly to Leh directly.. Roads: Manali-Leh: 5 passes, rough sections. Srinagar-Leh: better road.. Self-drive: 4WD recommended. Fuel up at every pump.. Public transport: Flights from Delhi, Mumbai. HPTDC buses Manali-Leh seasonal.. Last stretch: moderate
Elevation
3,524m
Difficulty
moderate
Budget tier
mixed
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