The May story

May is when Tirthan shifts from spring getaway to active adventure destination. The headline is GHNP: the Tirthan entrance to the national park gives access to multi-day treks into one of the most biodiverse protected areas in the Western Himalayas. The Tirthan-Rolla-Tirath route (3-4 days, moderate) takes you through old-growth forests of blue pine, spruce, and fir, with legitimate chances of spotting Himalayan black bear, goral, and musk deer. Permits are mandatory (₹600/day for Indians, ₹1,600 for foreigners) and must be arranged through registered guides — do not attempt GHNP without one, it is dense wilderness with no trail markers. Trout fishing remains strong through mid-May, though increasing water flow makes fly fishing harder. Spin casting with small spoons works better in high water. River camping peaks — the sound of the Tirthan at night from a riverside tent is what people come here for. Jalori Pass is hot enough for T-shirts at the trailhead. Late May afternoons bring thunderstorms (usually short, 1-2 hours). The main downside: May weekends are genuinely busy, and the road from Aut sees more traffic than the valley's infrastructure comfortably handles. Visit midweek if possible.