Kashmir Complete

Arrive. Houseboat on Dal Lake. Shikara ride. Mughal Gardens (Nishat Bagh, Shalimar). Don't try to do everything today — you have time.

Full day Gulmarg. Gondola Phase 1 (and Phase 2 if weather cooperates). Khilanmarg meadow walk. Return Srinagar evening.

Drive to Pahalgam. Check in. Afternoon: Betaab Valley — the name comes from a Bollywood film but the beauty is real. Lidder River walk. Evening in the town.

Full day exploring. Aru Valley (meadows, gentle walk, pony rides). Baisaran (mini Gulmarg). Chandanwari if you want to see the Amarnath Yatra starting point. Or just sit by the Lidder with a book. Pahalgam rewards slowness.

Return to Srinagar. Afternoon: Old City walk — wooden mosques, spice markets, Zaina Kadal bridge. Hazratbal Mosque. Shankaracharya Temple for sunset views. Apply for Gurez ILP if you haven't already.

Drive to Sonamarg ('Meadow of Gold'). Thajiwas Glacier walk (easy, 2km, kids can do it). Sindh river views. This is the gateway to Ladakh — on a clear day you can see the Zoji La pass road climbing up. Overnight Sonamarg.

Morning Sonamarg walk. Return to Srinagar. Rest day. Dal Lake in the afternoon — you'll appreciate it differently after seeing the valleys. Shopping: pashmina, saffron, walnut wood carvings, papier-mache.

The Gurez drive. Srinagar → Bandipora → Razdan Pass (3300m) → Gurez. 5-6hrs on a narrow mountain road. The valley opens up below Razdan Pass and it's unlike anything else in Kashmir — rocky, wild, the Kishanganga river cutting through. Habba Khatoon peak watching over everything. Overnight Dawar village.

Morning in Gurez. Walk to the river. Visit Tulail if time permits (further up the valley, closer to the LOC). The wooden houses, the quietness, the complete absence of tourists — this is the Kashmir that existed before Instagram. Return to Srinagar (5-6hrs).

Morning: Dal Lake flower market by shikara (4:30-6AM). Last houseboat chai. Depart.