Dal Lake Floating Vegetable Market.
Operates 5-6 AM only. Hotel staff rarely mention it. By 7 AM completely gone.WHY NOBODY KNOWS
Hundreds of shikaras trading vegetables and flowers on water in dawn mist. Only floating vegetable market in India.
Skip to contentII · THE VERDICT III · THE WINDOW · 12 MONTHS, SCORED IV · THE FIELD BRIEF V · THE RISKS · WHAT TO KNOW VI · THE ATLAS · WHERE TO POINT Nº 011KM · SHIKARA 15MIN FROM DAL GATE VII · THE COST · THE CROWDS · THE GROUND VIII · THE STAY · THE EAT Not sponsoredIX · THE FIELD · TRAVELER NOTES X · THE ITINERARY · DAY BY DAY XI · THE CODA
Naksh.iq
ISSUE Nº 47 · MAY 2026
PEAK·10.0·MAY·SrinagarBuild routeAsk AIvs Doodhpathri
DISPATCH · ISSUE Nº 47
10.0
PEAK · MAY
Srinagar.
The Venice of the East is a cliche that undersells it — Dal Lake at dawn, with the Zabarwan mountains behind, is one of the most beautiful sights in Asia.
VERIFIED APR 2026 · ISSUE Nº 47
4 MIN READ·Or skip to the verdict ↓
“The Venice of the East is a cliche that undersells it — Dal Lake at dawn, with the Zabarwan mountains behind, is one of the most beautiful sights in Asia.”
WHY SPECIAL
Srinagar is where Mughal emperors built their paradise gardens and Kashmiri artisans perfected papier-mache, woodcarving, and pashmina weaving over centuries. The houseboat culture is unique to Kashmir.
THINK TWICE
Internet can be shut during unrest — check situation before planning
GO
WAIT
SKIP
Kids
10.0/10
Solo F
6.0/10
Crowd
PEAK
Cost
Mixed
Effort
EASY
Know before you go
- Price
- ₹800-15000/night
- Best window
- Mar, Apr, May, Jun, Sep, Oct
- Access
- Delhi→Srinagar: 1hr flight or Jammu→Srinagar 300km 8hrs
- Emergency
- 108 (reliable) · SKIMS, SMHS — world-class hospitals in Srinagar
Every month rated on the 0–10 editorial scale. Click any cell to read the month-specific verdict — what to do, what to skip, what crowds you'll meet.
↑ Tap any month for the full read · colours match verdict bands
Read our scoring methodology →
Live weather
DEEP-DIVE READS
Is India Safe for First-Time Visitors?DEEP DIVE · 10 MINWhy Kashmir in September Changed How We Score DestinationsDEEP DIVE · 10 MINKashmir with Kids: The Complete Family Intelligence ReportDEEP DIVE · 12 MIN10 Scams Every First-Time India Visitor Falls ForDEEP DIVE · 8 MINThe Tourist Trap Index: India's Most Overrated Destinations (And Where to Go Instead)DEEP DIVE · 16 MIN
ELEVATION
Altitude Context
How high this sits vs places you already know.2,130m· AMS risk begins
216m· Delhi
1,585m· Srinagar
AMS riskNegligible for most travelers.
Srinagar is where Mughal emperors built their paradise gardens and Kashmiri artisans perfected papier-mache, woodcarving, and pashmina weaving over centuries. The houseboat culture is unique to Kashmir.
Before you decide
Everyone goes to Srinagar
Here's what they miss.
At least now you know what's out there.
Every destination carries trade-offs. The cards below score the practical ones: confidence in the data, kids-suitability, solo-female read, and the emergency floor.
10.0
Safety Rating
One of the safest cities for tourists. Strong police presence. Kashmir hospitality is legendary.
🚗How to Reach
Delhi→Srinagar: 1hr flight or Jammu→Srinagar 300km 8hrs
Road: NH44 well-maintained. Banihal tunnel operational year-round.
Public transport: Flights from all major cities. SRTC buses from Jammu.
Self-drive: Any car. Roads good.
🏠Where to Sleep
500 options (houseboat, hotel, homestay, resort)
₹800-15000/night
All platforms. Houseboats via direct contact.
Emergency: Hotels always available.
⛽Fuel
Nearest: Multiple in Srinagar
Next: All routes have regular pumps
EV charging: Not available
🌙Weather at Night
Summer
15°C
Winter
-5°C
Dal Lake can freeze edges in Jan. Pleasant summers. Monsoon is mild.
🚨Emergency Contacts
Hospital: SKIMS, SMHS — world-class hospitals in Srinagar
Police: Multiple
Rescue: SDRF J&K
Ambulance: 108 (reliable)
Helpline: J&K Tourism: 0194-2452690
📶Network Coverage
JioAirtelBSNLVi
WiFi: Most hotels
Full 4G in Srinagar. Weakens in Gurez and remote areas. Internet shutdowns occasionally during unrest.
🤝People Who Can Help
J
J&K Tourism
Government tourism
jktourism.jk.gov.in
Can arrange shikaras, houseboats, guides.
KIDS · FAMILY READ
10.0
FAMILY-APPROPRIATE
Minimum age: 3+ yrs
Best for: All ages
Stroller: Not possible
HIGHLIGHTS FOR KIDS
Shikara ride on Dal Lake
Houseboat overnight stay
Running around Mughal gardens
Floating vegetable market by boat
Snow play in Gulmarg day trip
REASONS
Shikara rides are magical for kids
Houseboat stays are a unique experience
Mughal gardens are spacious and flat
Good hospitals available
CONCERNS
Winter is very cold for small children
Security situation needs awareness
Dal Lake water quality varies
Solo-female safety
6.0/10— Manageable, stay vigilant
Dal Lake houseboats with named operators (Sukoon, Peacock) are safe. Solo Old City walk unadvised; Dargah Hazratbal day-trip via taxi. Avoid curfew-risk days.
Month by month
Jan
3
Feb
3
Mar
3
Apr
3
May
3
Jun
3
Jul
3
Aug
3
Sep
3
Oct
3
Nov
3
Dec
3
4–5 safe 3 vigilant 2 with operator 1 skip month-specific note closed
🌍 For International Travelers
Cultural Context
Heart of the Kashmir Valley, famous for Dal Lake houseboats, Mughal gardens (Shalimar, Nishat), and centuries of Kashmiri craft tradition (papier-mache, pashmina, walnut wood). The city sits at 1585m surrounded by the Pir Panjal range. Kashmir's beauty is legendary — and so is its complex political history.
What to Wear
Conservative dress recommended — Kashmir is Muslim majority. Women should cover head when visiting mosques and shrines. Long sleeves and full-length pants/skirts are respectful.
Food Safety
Wazwan feast is a must-try — multi-course Kashmiri cuisine. Restaurant food is safe. Kashmiri noon chai (pink salt tea) is unique. Street food is generally fine at busy stalls.
Common Scams to Watch For
- Houseboat quality varies wildly — book through verified platforms, see photos, read recent reviews
- Carpet shop pressure sales — friendly invitation to "just look" leads to hours of guilt-tripping
- Overpriced shikara (boat) rides — agree on price and duration before boarding
- Fake pashmina (actually viscose) sold at pashmina prices — real pashmina passes the ring test
Cards & Cash
Limited — carry sufficient cash. Some hotels accept cards. ATMs available in main areas but can be unreliable.
English Spoken
Moderate — tourism workers speak English. Kashmiri and Urdu are primary languages. Younger generation speaks better English.
Phone & SIM
Jio and Airtel work in Srinagar city. Network can be restricted during security situations. BSNL postpaid is most reliable. Prepaid SIMs from other states may face temporary blocks.
Nearest Embassy
New Delhi — approximately 850km (1.5 hour flight).
Standard e-Visa covers Srinagar. No special permits for Srinagar city. Check current travel advisories before visiting — security situation can change.
EMERGENCY · SOURCE-VERIFIED
Places to Visit in Srinagar
🛍️
Dal Lake Floating Vegetable Market
Early morning floating market where vendors sell vegetables and flowers from shikaras. Starts at 5 AM.
🕐 1-2 hours🎫 Free👶 Kid-friendly
🌺
Mughal Gardens
Three terraced gardens — Nishat, Shalimar, Chashme Shahi. 400-year-old Mughal landscaping.
🕐 3-4 hours🎫 ₹24 / ₹100 each👶 Kid-friendly
🌺
Shalimar Bagh
Emperor Jahangir's "Garden of Love" built in 1619. Terraced Mughal garden with fountains and chinars.
🕐 1-2 hours🎫 ₹24👶 Kid-friendly
🌺
Nishat Bagh
Largest Mughal garden in Kashmir with 12 terraces representing the 12 signs of zodiac. Dal Lake backdrop.
🕐 1-2 hours🎫 ₹24👶 Kid-friendly
🌺
Indira Gandhi Memorial Tulip Garden
Asia's largest tulip garden with 1.5 million bulbs of 68 varieties. Open mid-March to mid-April only.
🕐 1-2 hours🎫 ₹50👶 Kid-friendly
🌺
Chesma Shahi
Smallest but most beautiful Mughal garden built over a natural spring. Fresh spring water flows through terraces.
🕐 30 min🎫 ₹24👶 Kid-friendly
🏞️
Dal Lake Shikara Ride
Iconic wooden boat ride through floating gardens and houseboats. Sunset is magical.
🕐 1-2 hours🎫 ₹500-1,500👶 Kid-friendly
🗿
Pari Mahal
Seven-terraced garden built by Dara Shikoh as a Buddhist monastery, later converted to a library. Night-lit.
🕐 1 hour🎫 ₹40👶 Kid-friendly
🗿
Hazratbal Shrine
White marble mosque on the western shore of Dal Lake housing a relic believed to be a hair of Prophet Muhammad.
🕐 1 hour🎫 Free👶 Kid-friendly
🗿
Jamia Masjid
Grand mosque built in 1394 with 370 wooden pillars of deodar wood. Can hold 33,333 worshippers.
🕐 30 min🎫 Free👶 Kid-friendly
🛕
Shankaracharya Temple
Hilltop Shiva temple at 1,000 ft above Dal Lake dating to 200 BC. Panoramic views of Srinagar and Dal Lake.
🕐 1-2 hours🎫 Free👶 Kid-friendly
NEIGHBOURHOODS · WITHIN SRINAGAR
Dal Lake
1583MThe lake that defines Kashmir — shikara at dawn is non-negotiable
Dal Lake is 18 sq km of lotus gardens, floating markets, and houseboats. The sunrise shikara ride is the single most iconic Kashmir experience.
0 KM· half day to overnight· KIDS OK
Mughal Gardens
1600MThree gardens that made emperors build empires just to have somewhere nice to sit
Shalimar Bagh, Nishat Bagh, and Chashme Shahi — all three within 10km. Terraced gardens with Mughal-era fountains, chinars, and Dal Lake views. Nishat is the most photogenic, Shalimar the most famous, Chashme Shahi the smallest but quietest.
8 KM· 3-4 hours for all three· KIDS OK
Nigeen Lake
1583MDal Lake quieter twin — same water, none of the tourist boats
Nigeen is connected to Dal Lake but feels completely different. Fewer houseboats, quieter waters, surrounded by Chinar trees. The locals swim here. If Dal is Times Square, Nigeen is Central Park.
3 KM· half day· KIDS OK
Hazratbal Shrine
1585MThe only domed mosque in Kashmir — white marble against Dal Lake at sunset
Hazratbal houses a relic believed to be a hair of Prophet Muhammad. The white marble dome against Dal Lake is one of Kashmir most photographed sights. Non-Muslims can visit the grounds (not during prayers).
5 KM· 1 hour· KIDS OK
Shankaracharya Hill
1876MThe 360-degree view of Srinagar that makes you understand why every empire wanted Kashmir
1000-step climb to the Shankaracharya temple (5th century) on a hilltop above Srinagar. The view — Dal Lake, Nigeen, the city, Zabarwan mountains — is the best panorama in the valley. Go for sunset.
4 KM· 2 hours· KIDS OK
HIDDEN GEMS · 4 NEAR SRINAGAR
Step onto the island — ancient chinar canopy, complete silence, views across entire lake. Autumn colors extraordinary.
Ruined observatory with panoramic Dal Lake views. At sunset the lake turns gold. Fraction of Mughal Garden crowds.
400-year-old Mughal caravanserai (inn) still standing. Arched corridors, carved wood. Being slowly restored. Almost unknown.
OR INSTEAD · NEIGHBOURING READS
How Srinagar stacks against the closest alternatives.
WHAT A DAY ACTUALLY COSTS
Houseboat ₹1500-15000/night. Shikara ₹500-800/hour. Mughal gardens ₹25 each.
budget
₹1,300/ day
Stay₹600
Food₹300
Transport₹200
Activities₹200
midrange
₹5,000/ day
Stay₹3,000
Food₹700
Transport₹500
Activities₹800
luxury
₹15,000/ day
Stay₹10,000
Food₹2,000
Transport₹1,000
Activities₹2,000
WHAT CROWDS LOOK LIKE
JAN
QUIET
FEB
QUIET
MAR
QUIET
APR
PEAK
MAY
PEAK
JUN
PEAK
JUL
PEAK
AUG
MOD
SEP
MOD
OCT
MOD
NOV
QUIET
DEC
QUIET
Tulip Festival (Apr) is insanely crowded. Winter is magical but cold. Check security situation before booking.
INFRASTRUCTURE · ON THE GROUND
How This Place Actually Works
Day-to-day logistics — what locals know that maps don't show.Taxis & local transport
Pre-paid taxi stand at Srinagar airport. In-city full-day ₹2000-2500. Shikara ₹600-900/hr (fixed by tourism board).
Check-in / check-out norms
ID copy mandatory — Aadhaar for Indian, passport for foreign. Some houseboats require advance payment.
Cash vs UPI
UPI at hotels + large shops. Shikara + street vendors cash. ₹5000 cash buffer recommended.
ATMs (real-world reliability)
J&K Bank + SBI ATMs abundant + reliable in city. Can go dry during political disturbances — check news before travel.
Shop & restaurant hours
Markets 10am-9pm. Friday afternoon many shops close for prayers. Lal Chowk busiest 4-9pm.
Language realities
Kashmiri locally. Hindi + Urdu widely. English at tourist-facing businesses. Learn As-salamu alaykum greeting.
Internet backup plan
Jio + Airtel 4G work. Internet shutdowns occasionally during security situations. Always have offline maps.
HOW TO REACH
AIRPORT
Sheikh ul-Alam International
RAIL
Jammu Tawi (290km)
WHERE TO EAT · 36 VERIFIED PICKS
★ LEGENDARY
Aali Kadal Harissa (Bhat family)
Signature: harissa
Reportedly ~200 years old, currently run by Ghulam Mohammad (in his 80s) and his son Zahoor Ahmad Bhat — the fourth/fifth generation behind a stove in old Srinagar. Featured by Better India and Goya. Customers book orders days in advance during peak winter; Dilip Kumar is among names the family cites.
Tip: It's a tiny rust-coloured wooden storefront with no signage near the kadal — ask any local for the 'purana harissa shop'. Get there by 7am or it's gone.
AALI KADAL· ₹· KIDS OK
★ LEGENDARY
Ahad Sons
Signature: traz wazwan (multi-course)
Founded in the late 1970s by Wazwan chef Abdul Ahad Khan (the family is named in Roli Books' 'Wazwan' monograph). For three decades the Ahad Sons kitchen has catered Indian Presidents, PMs, CMs, film stars and Kashmiri weddings. The Fateh Kadal address is the working kitchen, not a walk-in restaurant — order in advance.
Tip: This isn't a sit-down spot — it's a wedding-grade catering kitchen. Phone ahead a day before for a takeaway traz; eat it at your hotel with naan and lavasa from a nearby kandur.
FATEH KADAL· ₹₹₹· KIDS OK
★ LEGENDARY
EST. 1918
Ahdoos
Signature: wazwan thali
Started 1918 as a bakery by Haji Mohammad Sultan, who trained in Kolkata under Maharaja Hari Singh's patronage; by the 1920s it was the first restaurant in the Valley to serve full Kashmiri Wazwan. Still family-run from the same Residency Road frontage.
Tip: Order the half-wazwan if there are two of you — a full wazwan is built for four and the rice alone defeats most travellers. Bakerkhani from the attached bakery downstairs is the morning move.
RESIDENCY ROAD· ₹₹· KIDS OK
★ LEGENDARY
Bat Kandur
Signature: girda
A 200-year-old kandur (clay-tandoor neighbourhood bakery) in Batiyar, Aali Kadal — set up when the area still had ~600 Pandit families and 29 Muslim families. The structure is unaltered; multiple bakers have run it but the recipes haven't changed. A symbol of pre-1990 syncretic downtown Srinagar.
Tip: Open only at sunrise through mid-morning (~5:30–10:30am). Buy a girda or tsot warm and walk to a tea stall for noon chai — the standard Kashmiri breakfast.
AALI KADAL· ₹· KIDS OK
★ LEGENDARY
EST. 1918
Crème by Ahdoos
Signature: bakerkhani
Ahdoos opened on Residency Road in 1918 and turned 100 in 2018, when the bakery half rebranded as Crème — the Ahdoos restaurant continues upstairs, the bakery-cafe runs at street level. The single most-cited spot for Kashmiri bakerkhani and sheermal in Srinagar's central zone.
Tip: Take a box of bakerkhani for the houseboat — they're best within four hours of baking, before the layered ghee resolidifies. The first batch comes out around 8am.
RESIDENCY ROAD· ₹· KIDS OK
★ LEGENDARY
Imran Cafeteria
Signature: mutton seekh tujj
The original BBQ-street kebab shop at Khayam Chowk — started by Muhammad Yusuf, now run by his grandson Abdul Hameed (some sources say son Zeeshan). Coal-fired tujj (marinated mutton skewers) served with six chutneys and lavasa. Roughly 50 years on the same corner; the shop most travel writers point to when they say 'Khayam Chowk'.
Tip: Come after 7pm — the grills only fire up in the evening, and the best skewers move fast. Sit on the bench outside; the tin-roofed interior fills up with smoke.
KHAYAM CHOWK· ₹· KIDS OK
WHERE TO SLEEP · EDITOR'S PICKS
xfactor · ₹15–25K
Sukoon Houseboat
houseboat
5-suite restored houseboat at Kabootar Khana on Dal's floating gardens — TA #2 of 19 Srinagar B&Bs, 4.8★/167. Books well in advance; reviews active March-April 2026.
value · ₹8–15K
Fortune Resort Heevan, Srinagar
mid_range_hotel
ITC-Fortune Srinagar property (NOT the Pahalgam/Sonamarg Heevan) — Kashmiri heritage interiors, multiple dining options, evening bonfires at ~half the Taj price.
experience · ₹15–40K
Taj Dal View, Srinagar
luxury_hotel
Only Taj property in Kashmir — 103 rooms at Kralsangri Brein with outdoor pool against Dal Lake + Zabarwan Range. TA #1 of 8 Srinagar resorts, 4.6★/3,645.
location · ₹6–12K
Harmukh Houseboat by Stay Pattern
houseboat
Owner Zubair Wangnoo (5-generation Nigeen Lake houseboat operation) — quieter than Dal, balcony facing the Zabarwan Range, traditional carved wood-panel interiors. TA 5.0/80.
BOOK A STAY · CURATED PROPERTIES
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LOCAL LEGENDS · WHO MAKES THIS PLACE
Abdul Rashid Wani
Shikara wala · Shikara RashidThird-generation shikara operator on Dal Lake. His dawn rides catch the floating vegetable market that most tourists sleep through. Knows every houseboat family, every lotus garden, every hidden channel. Never overcharges — rare on Dal Lake.
Gulzar Ahmed
Chef · Wazwan MasterTrained under the legendary wazas of downtown Srinagar. Cooks the full 36-course Wazwan for weddings and special bookings. Will arrange a private 7-course Wazwan experience for small groups — the most authentic Kashmiri food experience possible.
Noor Jahan
Artisan · The Pashmina AuntRuns a cooperative of women weavers producing genuine pashmina shawls. Will show you the difference between real pashmina and the machine-made fakes that flood the market. Prices are fixed — no bargaining because they're already fair.
Ghulam Nabi Karnai
Houseboat owner (4th generation) · Morning StarFor four generations, the Karnai family has hosted visitors on Dal Lake from their Morning Star Houseboats. One of the most established houseboat families in Srinagar.
Haji Butt Family
Heritage houseboat dynasty · Butts ClermontThe Butt family has run Butts Clermont Houseboats since 1947, when Haji Butt acquired the boats from an English friend from Clermont Hall, Norfolk. The crowning jewel of Dal Lake houseboats.
FESTIVALS · BY THE MONTH
Tulip Festival
APRIL
Asia's largest tulip garden — 1.5 million tulips in 60+ varieties below the Zabarwan hills.
What Travelers Say
Real experiences by traveler type — not generic star ratings
💑 Couples say
Apr 202510.0/10
The shikara ride at sunset on Dal Lake was the most romantic experience of our trip. Stayed on a houseboat for 3 nights — the carved walnut wood interiors are museum-quality. Mughal Gardens are beautiful but touristy. Go to Nishat Bagh on a weekday.
💡 Tip: Negotiate houseboat prices BEFORE getting on. Once you are on the lake, you have zero leverage.
📷 Photographers say
Oct 202510.0/10
Dal Lake at 5am in October with fog lifting off the water and shikaras emerging from the mist — I have never shot anything like it. The floating vegetable market happens at dawn and is pure photojournalism. Hazratbal Mosque reflection shots need a calm day.
💡 Tip: The floating market is only accessible by shikara. Arrange with your boatman the night before for a 5am pickup.
🌟 First-timers say
May 20258.0/10
I was nervous about safety but felt completely fine. The locals are incredibly hospitable — got invited for noon chai twice. The old city around Jamia Masjid has beautiful architecture. Army presence is visible but not intimidating. Lal Chowk is the commercial hub.
💡 Tip: Carry cash. Many shops and shikaras do not accept UPI. ATMs are available but often have queues.
👩 Solo women say
Sep 20258.0/10
Felt very safe. Kashmiri people are protective of tourists, especially women traveling alone. Dress modestly near mosques. The boulevard area along Dal Lake is well-lit and busy till late. Avoid isolated houseboats — choose ones clustered together.
💡 Tip: Book a houseboat through a verified platform, not through touts at the airport. The airport touts will take you to the most expensive option.
On the Ground
How to spend your time here, block by block.Srinagar essentials
Morning
Dal Lake shikara ride ₹600-900/hr. Nishat Bagh (Mughal garden, ₹25 entry).
Midday
Lunch at Ahdoos on Residency Road — classic Kashmiri wazwan (rogan josh, gushtaba, tabak maaz).
Afternoon
Shankaracharya Temple (1000+ year old, hilltop). Pari Mahal Mughal ruins for city views.
Evening
Shalimar Bagh (Mughal garden). Sunset shikara on Dal Lake.
If weather turns
Rain kills garden visits aesthetics. Move indoor: SPS Museum, Jamia Masjid (500-year-old wooden mosque), Khanqah-e-Moula (14th-century wooden shrine).
For travelers like you
Tap any traveler type below to see how this place feels for them.
GO — Srinagar is family-friendly. Houseboats are a hit with kids. Gulmarg gondola works for all ages.
Best For
Who we'd send here — and why.Best for
Classic Kashmir experience
Dal Lake houseboats + Mughal gardens + wazwan food = the image most travelers have of Kashmir
Best for
Kashmiri craft buyers
Pashmina (get GI-tag certified), walnut wood, papier-mache, hand-knotted carpets — best selection in India
Best for
Gulmarg/Pahalgam base
Both day-trippable from Srinagar; no need to change hotels if doing a short Kashmir week
Best for
Wazwan culinary pilgrimage
Ahdoos, Mughal Darbar, Adhoos Cafeteria serve the traditional 36-course Kashmiri wazwan — unmatched anywhere
ALSO ON NAKSHIQ
Eight more rooms in the magazine.
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Everything the guidebook won't tell you — written for India in 2026.
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The 100 best destination-months.
India's highest-scoring places, ranked across all 12 months.
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Our weekly newsletter, archived.
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What we'd skip — and what we'd do instead.
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Safety, scams, what to wear, food survival, solo female travel.
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— The NakshIQ editors
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