Amritsar in March

The March story

Holi in Amritsar is louder, wetter, and more enthusiastic than almost anywhere — Punjabis don't do anything halfway. The areas around the Golden Temple are more restrained (the gurdwara maintains its dignity), but the old city lanes become rivers of color and bhangra music. The Wagah Border ceremony in March runs at 5PM and the temperatures make the hour-long spectacle comfortable for the first time since October. Hall Bazaar and the surrounding markets are ideal for walking this month — fabrics, jutis (Punjabi shoes), and the phulkari embroidery that's Punjab's textile pride. The Gobindgarh Fort (recently restored and opened to tourists) includes a 7D theater, museum, and evening light show — give it half a day. March also works perfectly for the day-trip to Wagah (afternoon) combined with Golden Temple (evening) and Jallianwala Bagh (next morning) — the classic Amritsar circuit in ideal weather. Amritsari kulcha tastes just as good at 26°C as at 8°C, but you can eat it on the street without shivering.